What owners rate it on
What owners do with it
Input power12 owners said
120V outlet42%
Both 120V and 240V25%
240V outlet25%
Generator8%
Thickest material welded10 owners said
1/4" to 1/2"50%
1/8" to 1/4"50%
How it is used25 owners said
Hobby and home52%
Paid work28%
Auto and fab16%
Farm and repair4%
Process used41 owners said
TIG27%
MIG with gas27%
Stick24%
Aluminum12%
Flux core10%
Specs
What it does
- Amperage
- 20-140A (120V), 20-220A (240V)
- Duty cycle
- 100A at 40% (120V), 200A at 25% (240V)
- Thickest steel
- 5/16"
The machine
- Weight
- 40 lb
97 owner reviews
Thanks for this video. I have a 210MP which replaced an old Lincoln Mig Pak 10. I have had a lot of trouble welding sheet metal with the 210MP. The start of each weld would bounce back a couple times before stabilizing. Of the forum posts I've made about this problem and talking to Lincoln directly, there was never mention of Run-In Speed. I know it on my welder, but didn't know much about that setting. Now, I am curious to make adjustment to that setting. I have the feeling that what you said in this video is going to be the fix for my MP210. I was seriously considering replacing it with a 211a for a traditional style welder like the Mig Pak 10 I was used to. Thanks for posting this!!!
I've owned both. I'd take this 211i in a heartbeat.
I bought my Lincoln 210 MP multi processor from Bakers gas 8 years ago. Best investment I ever did. I’m probably gonna go with a Lincoln square wave. I love Miller though. Just the price difference is too much and I don’t see much difference in terms of reliability.
Sorry to hear that you had issues, mine is going strong. Granted mine is primarily used for running the spool gun on aluminum, so only a few hundred hours on it. Question, were you running on 120 or 240? I've heard that using the lower voltage can cause issues.
They all blow pc board 2200 to fix mi e was 5 years rarely used. Junk
@ChasingTheDream87I own 210MP I’ve used 6010 I don’t notice lack of penetration. I’d vee groove all the way to the back if I knew there’s an issue
Comparing Miller to Lincoln I own a Lincoln 210MP there’s nothing wrong w 210MP / 215MP works flawlessly. Baker’s advertise it in the stores.
Same as my 210 mp , just different software , they under rate these Lincolns by 20 amps .I know of people that drill a hole in the back and feed 30 pound spools all day every day with these machines . Personally i use my MP for tig more than anything , just wish it had a HF start but hey ,you get what you pay for .
I got my MP about 2 years ago ,paid too much but that's another story .Needed it for some fine tig work and mig , mainly needed a good shop machine , I had some 1/4 box steel to weld one day and wanted to try the stick . It is awesome with stick , it is still under warranty , I opted for the five year . I hammered it at first , maxed out the duty cycles on all processes except for the aluminum spool . Not happy about the lack of interface like no pulse weld but the guy at the shop that I sold me on it said hes sold 20 units no problems from anyone and one guy drilled a hole in the back and feeds a 30 pound roll and has been running 100 pounds a week for the last 2 years at.045 sr70 wire . I don't need to but know that if needed ,the machine will do it .And I do a lot of field service and running off the genny is a must.
I tried out the 210MP for a a bit. I didn't do a lot of welding, but I did enough to say the there is much improvement and I believe the problem is corrected. Can't even hear the wire feed working now.....which is probably the way it is supposed to be. thanks, Mark
The 210MP does have different size rollers. .025 .030 .035. I am using the .025 roller with .025 wire. My guess is the gear running eccentric is causing slipping on the loose side of the gear causing the wire to weld to the tip. Then when the tight side comes around the wire cant push through the sleeve and balls up in the drive. .030 wire has just a little more backbone to give it a harder push through the sleeve. If the new gear is available along with replacing the roller, hopefully it will work o-k. I have my doubts....
Hi, Today, the frustration has passed the limit. In 2019 I bought a 210MP to replace a Lincoln Mig Pak 10. The Mig Pak 10 was about 19 years old and always worked great til I tried to run an aluminum spool gun with it. The Mig Pak 10 didn't work too well after that. After watching reviews on the 210MP, I thought this would be a great up grade. However, the wire feed drive always made awful noise of gear mesh too tight on one side of the gear. From day one, it had trouble pushing .024 wire. It would burnback and stick to the tip. No changing the settings helped to remedy this. Tightening the feed would cause a birdnest in the feed drive. Changing to .030 wire was better and I stuck with that for welding exhaust and other heavier projects. Lately, we have been welding body panels and need to use .024. It worked o-k for a bit, but then back to feed problems. As the feed is running, the rollers for the feed go up and down. It looks like the shaft for the drive roller is bent. Called Lincoln for tech advice. Lincoln was pretty much no help other than finding a Lincoln Service Center near my zip code. I call that place which is an AirGas location. The guy was trying to be helpful for a couple minutes and mentioned they are no longer a Lincoln Service Center. Recommended taking the welder back to where I got it which is a different AirGas location. Basically, I am stuck with it. Taking a bit of time to look into this I decided to take the drive apart. The shaft isn't bent, it's too short to be bent and is supported on two roller bearings which feel like new. The motor is totally silent. The problem is the driven gear seems to run eccentric. Now the question is, where can I buy a driven gear for the feed drive? Thanks, Mark
The machine was the easiest part of learning how to weld 😂
It’s like the internet knows! Haha as a complete beginner, I love how easy it was to get right to welding. My stuff still looked like garbage but definitely not the welder’s fault
Yeah normally i really like lincoln but the longevity of this machine is dogs**** less then 100 working hours and the pcb burn out a $600 part on a 2k machine is absolutely ridiculous ... after replacing it 20 hours more and the front panel circuit board burned out which is $400 worst yet lincoln does not honor their warranty by hours but years owned meaning you catch the cost after throwing this machine in the trash i run an old sa200 now and an azzuno cheap Amazon welder ( it has 400 hours on it now and still burning) i paid $300 for it
I would like to get my hands on the engineer of this machine who obviously never mig welded before. The darn thing blows air out the front; it blows right where I am trying to weld on a welding table or other working area. They should have had it blowing out the back so it would not interfere with welding gas. I had to fabricate a shield to direct the air sideways. Otherwise it is a great machine.
I never had any problems with the 210mp. I just want to use it to do mobile jobs. That’s why I replaced it with the 215mpi
I have the Lincolns 210 mp, good solid welder.
Great video.Thanks for posting.I own Lincolns, Millers,ESAB and a Fronius welding machine.What I do notice with my Lincoln 210MP is with that drive roll system you have to keep it clean.Junk builds up in those wire grooves and actually causes wire feeding problems.One thing I found out that makes it stay cleaner is running those Weld Aid clamp on wire cleaners.
Have mine for over a year, no complaints. as a matter of fact, runs better than my older 210MP. My only issue is that I was expecting 0.30 flux core capability, something absent from the 210 too.
I have a 210, 215, 180c, 180 dual, 255c, SP175 & SP175. I still use my SP175 more than any of them
One thing I keep hearing about the 215MPi is the improved wire drive. I’ve owned two 210MP’s and the wire drive is identical. The good thing is, it was almost perfect to begin with. The only weakness is the little plastic drive hub that mounts to the motor shaft that you slide your bottom drive roll onto. I learned to keep one of those in my tool box. It’s still used on the 215MPi. The biggest improvements to the 215MPi that I see are: 1) 30% duty cycle (10% more than the 210MP. 2)they did away with the Mikey Mouse cord connector socket in the back of the machine for the power cord. 3) it comes already set up with the tig solenoid and gas port.
The 180 dual is, if I’m not mistaken, (I used to own one) is a transformer type machine; whereas, the 211 is an inverter. The 180c dual will eat a lot more power and give you less output. I have owned two 210MP’s (inverter as well) and they are far superior to the 180.
Great vid. I didn't know about run in feature. I have a 210mp and I noticed on certain more exposed welds I had to start at greater hold off distance with a little higher voltage and slower feed. Now I know why.
Have a 210 mp that had 2 computer boards fry within 2 year span.... I wonder if I should throw my money away for this pos as well....
I am still using the Lincoln Electric Power MIG 210 MP. I love it. The thing is solid I've done some really big jobs with it and never had any problems. It has capabilities of a much more expensive machine and if you take care of it this thing will do pretty much anything you needed to do. Aluminum stainless steel and anything in between
I keep having an issue with stick welding . it seems that it won't keep an arch . once I do have an arch its only able to keep it for seconds . I run 7018 3/32 at 100amps.
Excellent choice - I have it’s predecessor the 210MP and absolutely love it
It’s a great welder. I can pretty much do everything with it.
@-DIYPRO- Right now, I'm on my third welder. First was a Craftsman 240 stick welder (heavy!). Next was a Forney Easy Elde 125. That one was flux core only and AC. Next: a Lincoln Powermig 210MP. Spent three years with that one, great machine. Now, I have the newest Lincoln: Powermig 215MPi. The best I had so far...
I bought a 210 MP used for a very good price. I love it! the previous owner had the settings all messed up. I just went back to factory settings and it is a beast!
Update: got the machine, the very first update I notice was that they did away with the twist lock cables, instead they went with the traditional setup of a 230 volt plug to a 120 volt connector. To me, great improvement. My first impression that is a way better machine than the 210 MP. It's a little bigger than the 210, therefore, the 210 cover does not fit. Those extra two handles makes it easier to move around. I use .030 wire most the time, it does not have any recommendations or settings for .030 flux core wire which I was expecting to see in this machine, however, that is not a deal breaker. Hope they come up with a cover that fits this machine soon.
I have run .045 Lincoln Ultra-Core 71A-85 for the last 7 years on my 210MP’s with room to spare. The thermal overload protection will trip if you start making continuous welds 18” long or longer back to back but I rarely find yourself doing that with this machine. Just let it cool down for about 2 minutes and it’s ready to go again.
I got a Lincoln 210MP for one reason: versatility. My shop has 240 volts but when I take the machine outside the shop, most places are only 120 volts. I do have all the processes plus the machine is inverter, no big transformer= less weight. Enjoy that machine.
So the newer ones are taking dumps left and right. Had mine a year and the mother board is malfunctioning. Talked my rep at Airgas and he says he gets many of them for warranty.
@jonathangarzon2798 you have to buy a separate adapter to use a foot pedal with the 210, not sure about the esab. My 210 has been a great machine and held up to a lot of abuse
I just set up my machine for TIG welding with the foot pedal yesterday. It wasn't that difficult and it went together pretty easily with a pair of long needle nose and a flat head screwdriver. So far I really love this machine. I've done some stick welding with it and I'm getting ready to do my first TIG weld with it this morning
got the spoolgun all prepped and did a few test runs to get it dialed in.. contact went out or something got good gas flow and post flow working. But drive rollers a no go. Pulled tip and wire out of spoolgun still no roller movement. Installed the regular gun same thing no roller movement. Will see how the warranty works out. Good news ( not really ) is that do to the current hurricane situation going to be no rush on getting project done….. we haven’t seen any major rain yet so possibly this mess misses me. Prayers for my friends on the east side of the state…
I have a Lincon 210mp. As far as mine goes, you can only weld aluminum with a spool gun. And mine doesn’t have pulse that I’m aware of.
I have one and I could hug it I love it so much. It’s a killer machine.
Only thing I don't like: it does not support 0.30 flux core, also the TIG connector should come installed from factory. Mine after 3-4 months of use, the 240 volt cable separated from the connector. Still works but you can see the three wires inside. Lincoln quickly sent me a replacement. Other than the flux core (0.30) issue, is a great machine. Update: the new Lincoln 215 MPi which is the replacement for this one, does comes with the TIG kit installed from the factory. Still, does not automatically runs 0.30 flux core wire, which is not a big deal after all.
Yes they do make several larger machines. Quieter idk. Honestly it's louder on video than it is in person, I don't even really notice the fan while working. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have one and for continuous welding and it sucks for auto sheet metal.
I have one and it has wire feed problems. Also, it does not weld sheet metal very well. I had a Miller Matic 135 for many years before this machine. I lost the Miller in a flood. Never had a problem with the Miller and it welded sheet metal great. I regret buying this machine.
Well, I was hoping to find some component broken open with a huge scorch mark next to it, but everything looked very clean, no bulging capacitors, no burned out resistors from what I could see. The only thing that looked even slightly discolored was the transformer Full Board boardfullview.jpg (56.04 KiB) Viewed 11843 times
Tried different circuit, same results. I don't think that's it. I've tried different things and gotten the same results a dozen or more times so I think the odds of me all a sudden clashing with another appliance that many times would have to be close to zero. I don't know what the going rate is for a circuit board swap, but if the machine is no longer under warranty I just might try fixing it myself
I was pipe welder for 15 years had all my high pressure tickets stick/Tig/stick and Tig I picked up a little 140mp Lincoln welders and was impressed how it worked it does 6010 1/8 7018 3/32 no problem and migs just fine even on a extension cord but it was a heavy duty cord I had for breadbox welders back in the day to get into tight spots they don't work on Reg cords. also gonna pick up the Tig setup for it.
The $1500 to $2500 range gets you into good machines that are ac/dc tig and stick capable. Quality machines that will have good support, standard accessories, and features you will use as your skill will grow. Go this rout if your focus is more about looks, finished quality, versatility, reliability, flexibility. Consider Mig machines if your looking for easy, ( also easy to make a good looking bad weld), speed, or production. Mig is much more limited in is locational, positional, or ambient conditions uses. Where as a tig/ stick machine will give you flexibility to match your weld to the demands of the day. Remember they stick weld underwater, they tig most food and medical grade stuff, and Mig gets goobered on most beginners projects for several years before they get enough experience to be decent. Oscar also makes the point that there just isn’t any manufacturer that offers a machine that offers ac/dc tig, stick, and Mig. Until you get into the $ 8,0000 plus range. Even then they will require lots of experience to get value out of them. I ended up with 2 machines. (ThermalArc 186) One does ac/dc tig and stick, requires 220 single phase, and a second dc/tig stick, and Mig. (Lincoln 210mp) That’s capable of 110v operation. I very rarely use it on 110, because of it’s limited capacity at that voltage. $3000 to $4000 for a set, roughly.
I just bought the 210 mp. How do you like it? What wire size did you find best? Its smaller then what im used to but its a multi process and thats what i was after in my price range. Will see how it does. It will become my portable welder once it pays for itself and i get something full size for the shop that will go 1/2 deep. So far the welds look great and i havnt even tried 220 volt yet.
I was about to get one but the parts issue turn me away. For $1,000 welder and parts hard to get, I spent the extra $400 and got the Lincoln MP210 with 5 year warranty. Use it daily and no issues.
I bought one when they first hit the market. I’ve been very pleased with all aspects of its operation. The auto set is very close on its settings. I would think it would be great for new welders to learn with
I just got one with the spool gun, ran it 120v works like a dime.
Consider a multi purpose machine like the Lincoln MP 210. I bought one and even though it has capabilities to stick and tig it is 80% a solid mig machine 10% tig and 10% stick so if you’re only going to Mig. Then it’s a great machine and it gives you some options to try some other methods.
I just put this in another thread response, weldingtipsandtricks.com and weld.com, I prefer welding tips and tricks but weld.com is really good as well. they both allow you start with basics and move up when you are ready. you can't go wrong with either but the most important thing is take what you learn and practice as much as possible. as for equipment I would highly recommend a Lincoln MP210, it will give you a lot of options in one machine, and options are good to have because if you get hooked on this I can nearly guarantee you that you will want to learn to tig weld and while most folks prefer high frequency start I really don't have a big bias for it, I started using scratch start because I wasn't able to work a pedal between my knees while laying on my side and a scratch rig was way cheaper than a thumb control and now the only time I use my square wave is if I am on the bench. If you want to start really cheap, and I mean cheap I have a welder that I bought of of amazon strictly out of curiosity that I like so far, I say so far because I just don't have many hours on it because I don't do much mig welding. It is a YES WELDER, mig 205 if I remember right, it welds fine and the only problem that I have had with it is that it is smarter than me so it took a minute to figure out the inductance settings and I trimmed the nozzle to short and had to order more. I also bought a 165 amp DC stick welder of the same brand with hard start and arc force function, reason one to help me to improve my overhead welding and reason two because both of my grandsons were having a hard time getting a arc started without sticking the rod. I absolutely love this little machine, it weighs nothing, welds smooth as butter and runs scratch start tig very well. both of the machines by yes welder will run on 120 or 240 and if I remember correctly the mig was 210 $$ with a amazon coupon and the stick machine was 102 $$ with the coupon. If money is no object the Lincoln garage pack is a proven set up with the square wave 200 and the 210MP. I am not a professional welder,but I have made nearly every mistake that can be made and I do weld as part of my job from time to time and since I have a friend who is a manager for one of the bigger welding supply companies I get to demo a lot of equipment and I just really haven't seen any justification for the price difference between Lincoln and the blue and yellow machines and I don't know if you still can but I called Lincoln on a Saturday morning 3 or 4 years ago and got a real person on the other end and got my questions answered. Don't try to save money on a hood, I made that mistake for years. I have a bunch of hoods as result. For an economy hood I like the arc-one carerra with a 1000cfc filter or the vulcan hood at HF. I use a pancake hood a lot because it blocks all back light and glare and in my opinion the Esab Sentinal would be hard to beat but it is pricey at 300 bucks. My apologies for the unsolicited novel but I am out of work due to the corona deal and my wife has no interest in welding, motorcycles, tractors, power tools or any of the other things that make life so much more fun. I am Old and Irish
I have a Lincoln 210MP that's about 3 years old. Lately it seems like when I weld thicker stuff like 1/4" and up it seems to sputter a lot and not weld very well. I mess with turning wire speed up and down and it seems to help a little but not completely. Any ideas what might be going on?
Mine came jacked up.. loose wires inside and the foot pedal wires were a mess as well.. sent it back to the place I bought it ..they sent it to an authorized lincoln repair company in butler Pennsylvania.. they had it 2 months.. I personally went to pick it up asked what was wrong with it..they said loose wires and its fixed.. took it home would hardly tig weld.. it was all over the place.. I pulled the plug apart on the foot pedal. Found bare wires touching and melting stuff.. called them they said they never touched the plug.. wired it up myself.. runs ok... Same thing happened with the 210mp the mig side of things were trash.. the motor ran intermittently like it was a pulse gun or something. So I bought a brand new motor for it and it ironed out some of the issues. Yes I know these are entry level machines.. and I'm a Lincoln guy to and through. But I'll be buying a miller for my next machine.
I have the Tig 200 and this machine, the TIG 200 is a better tig welder, no need to scratch/lift start and it also will do AC for Aluminium.
Had mine 3 years, does a great job other than routine wire feed block problems. It seems to me that Lincoln’s customer service has been made unnecessarily difficult.
I have the same Lincoln 210MP machine and love it. Bought about a year ago. One note - when I first got the 210MP I tried the 120v plugged into my 20A outdoor outlet. The power tripped immediately every time I reset it. Problem was the GFI (or GFCI) breaker on my outdoor plug. That GFI is so sensitive that it won't handle the initial arc. So if you do try running the 210MP on 120v be sure to use a 'regular' outlet, not the GFI type (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). I now run it on 240v all the time and it is very smooth. Great welding machine, and I recommend it also.
I absolutely love my 210mp!!
I.ve had that model for about 2 years. The intereface is teriffic especially if you are a periodic welder that switches from mode to mode. Something to consider. Instead of a welding cart, reusing the bottom half of a used tool box can be a great way to go. You typically get more drawer space and often have room for plasma cutter on top a mutti mig welder has a lot off accessories to keep track of. weldingtips and tricks has excellent reviews on this model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9WbwS54B-0 Also the welder will support .045 (see directiions)
I bought one of these a couple years ago and love it. I’m and old stick guy but still learning on the flux core wire and I haven’t tried the MIG yet. Nice informative video; thanks!
I know nothing about the Miller but bought a factory refurbished 210 MP from WeldingMart in Appleton Wi last fall for right at $1200 with free shipping and no tax direct from Lincoln in Cleveland. I bought a Square Wave Tig 200 at the same time. When I got them everything looked brand new. No scratches on the plug blades even? They came with the regular factory warranty and the extended warranty is available on them which the WeldingMart sales person said wasn't available on refurbished machines when I bought them - but I called Lincoln and they said it was. I welded with a cheap Sears cracker box for probably thirty years before I got these, and a cheap Sears mig for about twenty, and boy what a difference the 210 MP is compared to those old Sears machines. I'm just now trying to teach myself Tig, by lurking on here and watching Jody's videos, so can't say much about the SW200.
I have this machine, and a spool gun for aluminum MIG welding. I used the spool gun to build a 200 gal holding tank, which is really just a 3x4x1 1/2 foot box out of 1/8" 5086 aluminum sheet. The only issue was the short duty cycle of the spool gun. It doesn't have AC capability, but some guys I work with told me you can TIG weld aluminum with DC if you use helium instead of argon. The machine can be bought on its own, capable of stick or mig out of the box, or as the "Aluminum one pack", which comes with the spool gun. I bought the base machine, and bought the spool gun later. It can also be bought as the "TIG one pack" where you get the machine with the torch, foot pedal, and adapters.
It has a few P.I.T.A. issues, but I was able to use one of these recently. For my budget, I am looking forward to buying one.
I’ve stick welded with mine. It’s good. Like Jody mentioned in his recent review it doesn’t like 6010. But I’ve run 6011,6013,7018 and some 316 ss. I have another machine that’s my go to for stick, but I won’t hesitate to use the 210 because it will run off 110v but my other machine is 220v only.
The 210 mp needs a liner change to run .045. Mine came with a liner that goes up to .035.
Short answer: If I had to mig weld for 8 hours straight I'd pick the 256, but any other situation I'd pick the 210. We use the Lincoln 256 extensively at our school and I personally owned a 210MP for a good bit. Our 256's get abused pretty bad by the students and get run wide open for most of the day, and while I prefer the 210, I'm not sure if it could handle that kind of abuse. (Maybe it can, I've never tried ) Why the 256 is better: - It has a better duty cycle. (256 = 24V @ 40% and the 210 = 24V @ 25%) This is good if you are doing a lot of production work where the machine is being run wide open all day. - It can hold large 33lb spools which is more cost effective. - This machine can mig weld in spray transfer better than the 210. I will say that if I had to do spray transfer on a consistent basis I wouldn't own either one as they are both too weak. While they both technically can, they don't do it well and both machines have to be maxed out to achieve it. - It has a 4 step switch that allows you to weld without holding on to the trigger, a handy option when making long duration welds such as pipe on a turn table. - Longer gun whips can be used which increases the reach of your welder without having to roll it around. - The stock mig gun has a higher duty cycle and is more durable. - The drive roll assembly is way more industrial and durable than the 210. - It has a 110v plug in the back for powering tools, lights, grinders, ect. Why the 256 isn't better: - It's heavy and doesn't transport as easily as the 210. - It doesn't have an inductance function. (personal preference, but I really find this feature very handy) - It cant stick or tig weld. - It doesn't have dual voltage so it can only be welded where there's 220. - It doesn't have an auto set function which means you always have to dial in your settings manually. - You have to buy an adapter to run the base line spool gun, the 210 is ready to go stock. - The 256 is a transformer, and in my opinion, is not as smooth welding as the 210. Hope this helps
I own a mp210 iv ran this machine threw it's paces. I bought my machine to work for a week and build a steam header with it on 110v mainly tig welding with it. Hours and hours on 110v tig and stick welding I love this welder! All welder were x-rayed as per code.
Gary Karczewski I find that my Lincoln 210 Mp is amazing for what I do, I like that fact that I done have to buy 3 separate welder so for way more than £1400 or more! I do a lot of diy-auto body work tig isn't the best but both stick and mig I find are great the thickest I've done is about 1/2" but idk how well it penetrated but there definitely not gimmick if you're using it for more heavy DIY use, however if you are thinking about using it for industrial use I'd have to say get the different welders so you have that pre-setup machine etc...
bought one after seeing this video. Finally got together enough of the parts to scratch start. 3 days in doing drills on cold rolled I realized that the black numbers on the regulator that is provided with the machine are in L/min. 40scfm does just fine on mig, but really sucks to learn tig welding. Set the regulator down to 15scfm and things are going much much better.
I have had low end Lincoln wire welders since the late eighties. I have occasionally wondered why so many welders dislike it ? I wonder . I only use gas for very light gauge with 025. I only use 045 flux core . I have had pretty good results ..and I only weld clean metal after wire brushing between every pass. I now have the Mig 210mp. Mine would do 045 right out of the box. I did not have to fiddle with the roller or cable housing. It seems like it does a better job of putting down enough flux when welding 5/16 and allows you to use the upper current ranges. You should consider giving it a try sometimes. note : I always take my time before chipping off the flux .( I read somewhere a LONG time ago that it reduces cracking in your welds by slowing down the cool-off) Just sharing some thoughts !
When I ran the MP 210 I noticed it didn't make much difference either when we changed settings. On the Rebel, you can see some major things happening with the pool.
The Millermatic probably always have the fan on as well, but it's probably quite a bit larger and spinning at a lower RPM than the Lincoln so you don't hear it. Smaller fans that spin faster are louder. I have the Lincoln PowerMIG 210 and it's quite capable against the Miller counterparts in the same class (and extremely intuitive). It's definitely not the 180 (which shouldn't be used in any serious test). I do prefer Lincoln, but not from a fabricator standpoint. When I was in college I had a job working on welding equipment to supplement my income. I saw a lot more Miller than I did Lincoln in for repair. Lots of circuit board level repairs that could have been mitigated with better design. The general rule of thumb is that Miller is more cutting edge and whiz bang and Lincoln is more reserved and stable. This is even truer when you get into diesel/fuel drive. Miller also tends to be a little "prouder" of this innovation from a price point. All that being said, there's not a Miller or Lincoln on the planet that I haven't been able to get to work well if it's not broken.
I just bought one of these and I have to say, I am very impressed with the overall capability for the price. Lincoln keeps putting out stuff like this and I just might trade in my Miller equipment. Great video
I purchased one after watching your video. I am quite satisfied with it. A little additional info for everyone . The one I purchased was compatable with 045 innershield right out of the box (the liner and feed roller did not have to be changed) All that I had to do was purchase 10 new tips for o45 and a (12 ?) roll of wire. If you favor working with 5/16ths and up...its a good way to go. I haven't tried it with dual shield yet.
+Alex Park I had an issue with my feed mech bobbing also.Sent it back they fixed it good as new no movement in it now.
+Alex Park I haven't used it too much but i love the machine so far. I have not used the tig function yet but the mig is working well. My cousin, Abom79, came over and used the mig and stik functions and really liked it. Ask him his thoughts too.
image.jpeg (71.67 KiB) Viewed 995 times About half way through I switched over to 7018 3/32 at 80-85 amps.
image.jpeg (62.63 KiB) Viewed 999 times Finished out the plate with 6011 1/8 in. First time for me with the 6011. Started out down around 80 amps tried it up to about 130. Tried adjusting the arc force fron about 2 all the way to 10. There are a few good runs just short of the edge at about 97 amps with arc force at 5. Other than that it was about the same as the 6010. It would drop the arc for a split second but if you stayed steady it would just start back up.
image.jpeg (60.89 KiB) Viewed 1001 times Started with some 6010 used 3/32 and 1/8 tried all sorts of variables. From down around 65 amps up to 130 with both. Had the arc force up between 5 to 10. Not great with this rod but that's kinda what I've seen others say about the 6010 with this machine. It would drop out the arc occasionally. You can see all the stop spots. I was able to run a few beads that went the full 6 in. With the 3/32 at about 95 amps arc force about 7. Scrap plate is 6 in hot rolled 3/8 bar stock.
I welded some aluminum angle that holds a tool box under a trailer on a flatbed that a transfer truck pulls. Too much weight in the box made it just rip away from the bolts and it left some big gaps and cracks. My 210MP did great. It was 3/16 and when I set the machine it was way too hot and blew through. After I figured it out where I needed to be it worked great. No regrets so far in the 210MP.
I have the power mig 210 with the spool gun. I weld for a living and I have put this machine through it's paces and it's not let me down. Has more than enough power. As for the spool gun, it just takes some getting used to but it works great. The wire is a little hard to initially get in there, but overall everything works great for this machine.
I haven't tried to pop the duty cycle on it yet. Everything I've welded has been off 115v so far. I do a lot of repair welding so I spend more time prepping metal and only a few minutes, to an hour at most, actually welding. It can do spray mig transfer on .035 wire, but I only welded for five minutes. I think the dual fans really go a long way in helping the duty cycle, but they're so loud. Here is the video on the lincoln spoolgun: https://youtu.be/hUpmiDL92V8
This machine is working great. Im going to buy some stick electrodes and eventually a tig torch. I'll make videos for those so keep an eye out if your interested.
Im not sure if I would run it in a production shop, but Im not running a shop anymore. Its done everything Ive asked it, up to 3/8 at this point. The tig functions work well. I wish it had a second solenoid for running the argon. I ended up getting the tig torch with a gas valve on it, and it works fine, just a little hassle turning it on and off every time. Foot control works good, and the settings it provides for tig have worked every time. The fabricatior costs about 500 more for the same machine. The miller has a built in solenoid but its a grand more.
Built a welding cart for the new lincoln 210MP. I sold my large ESAB Migmaster 250 when I moved to WYO and needed something smaller, and this welder kicks butt. It welds extremely well out of the box, runs 110 or 220, and can do stick and DC tig. I have had no problem with any welds thus far with the settings it provides. Its the first welder Ive owned with the auto settings, and it works great. Fired up the CNC table and bender and got to building. On to pics: I wanted it to hold two cylinders so I could set up the tig side of the machine and do both with no changes... Drew up the top on SolidWorks: All done with the big work: Added the handle and lead hangers, Will add in a shelf eventually....
I started on a lincoln welder mig 3200 over 15 years ago but now have a hobart mig and a miller bobcat 250nt for more serious work.. but I'm kinda liking this 210 mp. Hmmmm.
Wayne Coots I used a 211 once but I have not had a chance to weld with the the Tweco 211i. I do have a Thermal Arc 252i (Tweco machines were previously thermal arc) and its a pretty decent welder although it is not very forgiving at low end settings on mig. Not sure how the whole Tweco rebranding is going to work out since being bought out by Esab. From what I know, and from what I have welded so far with the Lincoln 210mp, I think the Lincoln 210mp is the best value.
3500Hogie I really like it. Gonna try teaching my wife using this machine to see if the interface is as good as I think. lots of features, but the interface walks you thru it well
I've been waiting for these. Picked up 210 mp end of last year along with spool gun. Haven't used it much. Did some mig n seems like welds stick up high. Definitely wanna learn to tig so will be looking at getting the tig kit
Hey Jody, Thanks for posting this video. I bought this machine when it first came out and have been using it for mig. I like it. It's my first mig, I have experience with stick. I've been waiting for someone to do a Tig demo with the unit. Looking forward to your follow up video's on this machine. Thank you. Mike
I have not used it for mig or stick yet but will soon. The fan is sorta loud but I have heard worse. It was a pain installing the plug for the foot pedal but once that was done it worked fine. 175 amps is hot enough to Tig really thick steel and I pushed it hard at 175 till I had to let the torch cool.
Looking forward to seeing your MIG and stick videos on this machine. I own one and it has performed flawlessly in both MIG and stick (haven't done TIG yet). I punished mine on a heavy duty MIG project running at near full capacity for hours on end and never once hit the duty cycle. The recommended MIG settings seem to be a little cold. I usually just put it in manual CV mode and dial in my own settings. Smoothest stick arc around.
I love my 210mp, after getting everything sorted out on it it works great.. . Only real gripe is how loud the fan is, but I have never overheated it even after burning a 5 pound box of 7014 without stopping... I have recently started playing with the tig feature aswell but without the foot pedal and have made some pretty nice welds but it seems like the pedal is the way to go...
I have one of these. i installed the adapter as well as 24 volt leads from the gas valve to trigger an external valve. bought a $90 water cooled torch on ebay. made my own cooler with a procon pump and a 2 gallon ss tank. the pedal works like it should and triggers gas flow. the start up has a sweet spot and starts smooth.
I have the Lincoln 210MP as well as Miller280DX. I love them both but use the Lincoln a little more frequently. What type of welding do you anticipate doing? The 210MP is a great MIG machine and will also stick weld and you can buy the torch to DC TIG with it as well. The 280DX is a sweet AC/DC TIG which can stick weld too. I have an old Hobart MIG and it has worked great for years. I'm sure there are many good brands out there but these are the ones I can personally vouch for. Hope this helps. Cheers. -Eldon
Review videos
Lincoln Electric Power MIG 210 MP Multi-Process WelderJul 20, 2018 · YouTube ↗
Lincoln 210MP FAQ's - What You Want To Know Before Making An Investment Into A Lincoln 210MPMar 12, 2023 · YouTube ↗
Lincoln Power Mig 210MP Review and first weldsMay 11, 2022 · YouTube ↗
Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP Review (Part 1): Full video on WELD™ app!Mar 27, 2015 · YouTube ↗
Lincoln Electric POWER MIG 210 MP User Interface Walk-ThroughJan 14, 2015 · YouTube ↗
TIG, MIG, and Stick Welding with a Lincoln Power Mig 210mpMay 27, 2015 · YouTube ↗
